Term Limited Rotenburo, Oshio Onsen, Fukushima Pref.

Some say "miracle", others say "legend". I think both words aren't exaggerating at all to describe this Oshio kikan-gentei rotenburo（大塩期間限定露天風呂）, or the term limited open-air bath of Oshio Onsen, and I say it's a "mystery of nature".

This rotenburo dried up long ago and being empty most of the year. But on a spring day of several years ago, the hot spring suddenly revived, and after a few weeks it stopped and dried up again. Since then it's available for soaking every spring for 6 weeks at most. Nobody but mother earth knows when the hot spring starts spouting and how long it lasts.

I heard it tends to start spouting later after snowy winter. It was available from mid March to early May in 2007 after less snow than usual winter, and from April 17 through May in 2008. But the relationship between snow and the hot spring isn't clear so far.

I visited here late April in 2008. The hot spring was spouting vigorously from a hole at the bottom of the rotenburo. It wasn't so hot, 37-38 degrees Celsius, about 100 degrees Fahrenheit, perfect for long-time soaking. I spent more than an hour in early evening and the following morning each time.

You can enjoy view of blue-green Tadami River（只見川）, cherry blossoms, and a local train passing far away while soaking. Surprisingly, the hot spring water tastes a little bit sweet (I know it's not for drinking!)

A family run inn, Tatsumi-so（たつみ荘） owns this rotenburo. They allow day visitors' soaking for free so far. First you have to ask permission. No wonder staying (paying) guests have priority for soaking. It's a mixed bath, swim suites bathing is prohibited, and there is no changing room. I recommend you to stay overnight at the Tatsumi-so and soak early in the morning or in the night. Hundreds of people visit here on weekends and national holidays.

Spring is coming, just around the corner. Get ready! Come see and feel a gift from our mother earth and a mystery of nature.

overflowing spring pours into the river.

Travel Tips:
Oshio Onsen is in walking distance from Aizuyokota（会津横田） Railway Station of Tadami-line in Fukushima Pref, Tohoku Region. But visiting here by train isn't practical as Tadami-line train serves only several times a day. Also note four national holidays fall on end of April to early May, making so-called Golden Week, heavy travel season in Japan. In 2009, April 29, May 3-5 are national holidays, and May 6 is a substitute holiday as May 3 falls on Sunday.


Link to a bigger map

Kannawa Onsen, Oita Pref.

Fire!?!? No. They are so-called Yukemuri, steams rising from hot springs' fountainheads. You might have seen pictures of such hot spring steams in wild fields, but these steams are part of daily life in Kannawa (pronounce as kan-nawa) , a tourism and residential area of Beppu City, Oita Pref, Kyusyu Region. Isn't it amazing?

At some budget inns, they provide cooking facilities, you can cook sea foods, vegetables and other foods by onsen steam for yourself. Of course there are so many places for soaking.

Kannawa Onsen is one of the Beppu Hatto (Beppu Eight Hot Springs). Beppu City is famous for hot springs, there are 2843 fountainheads in the city, no other cities in Japan have so many fountainheads (See statistics in English).

Travel tips:
You can go Kannawa(鉄輪) by bus from the Beppu(別府) Railway Station, taking 20 to 30 minutes depending which bus you take (There are various bus routes). Then you need to walk 15 minutes to reach the Yukemuri View Point（湯けむり展望台）, where I took the picture above. Or take a taxi from Kannawa bus center. Winter is the best season to see Yukemuri.

Links:
Live Webcam of Kannawa Yukemuri
(If you can't see anything, click here)
Official website of Beppu city (English)


Link to a bigger map

Ba Ian Wild Hot Spring, near Taipei, Taiwan

Just came back from Taiwan. Soaked in various type of hot springs, for example, a wild open-air bath beside a river, a free public bath mainly for local residents, a private bath at a temple, and stylish spa pools.

The most memorable was the Ba Ian Hot Spring(八煙野渓温泉) just outside of Taipei city. The sulfur hot spring is very hot, more than 50 degrees Celsius, but you can make it adequate temperature by mixing river water.

To visit there, get on the Royal Bus(皇家客運汽車) serving between south side of Taipei railway station and Jinshan, and after about an hour and half ride, get off at Ba Ian Hotspring Resort(八煙温泉會館).

Takes not more than 30 minutes on foot to reach this wonderful open-air bath from the bus stop. Swim suites necessary. If you like hot springs in wild settings, this is the place to go. Everyday many people visit there, and the foot pass is well marked. You don't have to worry about get lost. Gets crowded on weekends even it rains.

Travel Tips:
The Royal bus(皇家客運汽車) to Jinshan(金山) leaves from Gong Yuang Rd(公園路), south of Taipei Railway Station. The bus departs about every hour on weekdays, and every half hour on weekends. It takes an hour and half to Ba Ian Hotspring Resort(八煙温泉會館), costing TWD 120 or 130. Walk down the slope beside the bus stop, then not turn right to the entrance of the resort, but go straight to follow unpaved foot pass.

Kawarayu Onsen Gunma Pref. (2)

Public Baths

There are three wonderful public baths at Kawarayu Onsen. Highly recommended for soak addict.


The Syotensama Rotenburo. Looks like a small hut on a hill.

■Syotensama Rotenburo（聖天様露天風呂）
Located up on a hill, this male and female mixed open-air bath has no changing room. There are roof, wood deck, shelves, a clock, fee box, and some bowls besides the bath itself. That's all. Soaking towels into the bath and wearing swim suites are prohibited.

No walls, low fences. Too open?

It's embarrassing for most ladies to soak themselves in. As for me, I visited in the early morning in March, fortunately I didn't meet any other visitors.

Dressing & undressing space.

Admission fee is JPY 100. Opens 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM, until 8:00 PM between Apr. and Nov. Smoking, eating and drinking are strictly prohibited in and around the bath, also at the other public baths.

■Sasayu（笹湯）
Near the Syotensama Rotenburo, this small simple and neat (at least inside) public bath has ladies' and men's space separated. Mainly for local residents, but open to visitors as well. Admission fee JPY 300. Opens 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, until 6:00 PM between Apr. and Nov.


The character "ゆ" means hot water.


The ladies' bath.


The men's bath.

■Oyu（大湯）
This is the biggest of the three, and there is a manager at the entrance to collect admission fee. It has Uchiyu indoor bath, and Rotenburo open-air bath (unfortunately this Rotenburo isn't so open). Both have men and ladies separated baths. Usually at other places, the Uchiyu and the Rotenburo are connecting, but they are separated here. Each has their own dressing room, and you have to put on cloths before moving to the other. Admission fee JPY 300. Opens 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, until 6:00 PM between Apr. and Nov. Closes on New year's day and 20th. Jan.


The most touristic place among the three.


The Uchiyu, indoor bath.


The Rotenburo, open-air bath is small, and not so open as the Syotensama Rotenburo.

Travel Tips
The Kawarayu Onsen is in Gunma Pref, Kanto area. It's within a day trip distance from Tokyo if you want. The express train "Kusatsu" from Ueno will directly take you to the Kawarayu station in two and half hours. You can drop in on the way to/from the Kusatsu Onsen. It's an easy walk from the station to all of the public baths I mentioned above. If you choose local trains, first go to Takasaki（高崎） with Takasaki-line, then change trains to Agatsuma-line（吾妻線）. The Agatsuma-line trains serve every hour or less.


An Agatsuma line local train near Kawarayu station.

There is a tourist information center in front of the Kawarayu Onsen railway station. (I doubt they speak English.) They serve Japanese noodles and buns. There is only a few places to eat in the area. The 40 year-run Furusato restaurant near the entrance gate is closing down at the end of Jan. 2009.

Kawarayu Onsen, Gunma Pref. (1)

[update] After the DPJ's landslide victory over LDP at the general election in Japan Aug. 30, 2009, future of the Kawarayu Onsen gets unpredictable, as the DPJ has promised to suspend constraction of Yamba Dam, which was going to submarge the Kawarayu Onsen.

The Yamba Dam construction plan first made public about 60 years ago. The residents of Kawarayu Onsen accepted the plan in 2001 after severe opposition activity against the construction for several decades, and before the election, they were supposed to move alternative site, "New Kawarayu Onsen" in a few years. (Sep. 3, 2009)


The entrance gate of Kawarayu Onsen.

Onsen without Future

No wonder Kawarayu Onsen（川原湯温泉） is getting deserted year by year. A planned flood prevention dam will submerge the area under deep water in the near future, maybe in 6 to 7 years. The officials decided replacing the Kawarayu Onsen to near area as "New Kawarayu Onsen", some of ryokans(Japanese inn), shops, and restaurants have already closed down.


It says "Welcome to the Kawarayu Onsen, the town sinking into a dam".

In spite of more than 800 year history, same as the nearby Kusatsu Onsen, the Kawarayu Onsen's popularity is far behind. But this forgotten Onsen fascinated me. It's so quiet. I can't help but feeling the sorrow of falling places every time I visit.

The water itself is quite hot, originally more than 70 degrees Celsius, 158 degrees in Fahrenheit. There is a hot spring well providing newly dug New Kawarayu Onsen beside the Onsen Shrine. You can make the Onsen Tamago, or hot springs boiled eggs here for free.


A basket tied to a stick is ready. Put eggs in the basket and soak for about 20 -25 minutes to make Onsen Tamago.

Yukake Matsuri

The Yukake Matsuri or the Splashing Spring Festival is held on January 20 every year. It starts around five o'clock in the morning. Many men wearing traditional Japanese underwear splash the hot spring each other. It has about 400 years history, supposed to continue at the replaced new site.



Useful Words:
Kawarayu Onsen (Kawarayu Hot Springs) 川原湯温泉
Kusatsu Onsen (Kusatsu Hot Springs)　草津温泉
Onsen Tamago (Eggs boiled by hot springs)　温泉卵
Yukake Matsuri (Splashing Spring Festival) 湯かけ祭り

Continue to Kawarayu Onsen (2)